Start with a Soil Test
Before adding fertilizer or amendments, a soil test tells you exactly what your soil needs. Testing helps you avoid over- or under-fertilizing and ensures optimal growing conditions for your plants.
Soil Testing Fees:
- FREE: April 1 through Thanksgiving
- $4 per sample: December through March
Submit samples using the NCDA&CS Soil Test Form for Homeowners. Collect samples from several spots in your garden, mix them together, and send in about one cup of soil. Results typically arrive within a few weeks with specific recommendations for lime, fertilizer, and other amendments.To view current soil test result turn around times, visit PALS.
Spring Lawn Care for Centipedegrass
Centipedegrass is the most common turf type in our region. This low-maintenance, apple-green grass thrives in eastern North Carolina but requires proper spring care to look its best (Miller et al., 2021).
Mowing
Mow centipedegrass to 1 to 2 inches tall. Don't let it grow taller than 2½ inches. Never burn off centipedegrass to remove debris—this damages the turf.
Fertilization
Do NOT apply nitrogen before mid-May. Centipedegrass has the lowest nitrogen requirements of commonly used turfgrasses. A basic fertilizer program calls for 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in mid-May. If your lawn appears yellow, this may indicate iron deficiency rather than a need for nitrogen. Spray iron sulfate (2 ounces in 5 gallons of water per 1,000 square feet) to enhance color—grass will green up within 24 hours (Miller et al., 2021).
Watering
Actively growing centipedegrass requires about 1 inch of water per week from rainfall or irrigation. Sandy soils may need more frequent watering (½ inch every third day). Proper spring irrigation helps prevent problems later in summer.
Weed Control
Apply preemergence herbicides by early March to control crabgrass, goosegrass, and foxtail. For postemergence control of summer broadleaf weeds, wait until May—at least three weeks after green-up. Centipedegrass is sensitive to certain herbicides (especially 2,4-D), so always follow label directions carefully--it's the law in North Carolina!
Thatch Removal
Power rake (vertical mow) in late May if thatch is thicker than ½ inch. Use 2- to 3-inch blade spacing set ¼ inch deep. Avoid 1-inch blade spacing, which may severely damage the lawn.View maintenance calendars for other grass types at: NC State Lawn Maintenance Calendars
Starting Seeds Indoors
Getting a jump on the season by starting seeds indoors gives transplants time to develop strong root systems before facing outdoor conditions. For warm-season crops that need a long growing period, indoor seed starting is essential for success in North Carolina (Bradley et al., n.d.).
When to Start Seeds
Start seedlings 6 to 8 weeks before you plan to transplant them into the garden. For eastern North Carolina, this means:
- Late January–February: Start seeds for peppers, eggplant, and celery (these need the longest lead time)
- Early–Mid March: Start seeds for tomatoes, broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower
- Late March–April: Start seeds for cucumbers, squash, and melons (if transplanting rather than direct seeding)
Seed Starting Tips
- Use a sterile seed-starting mix: Avoid garden soil, which can harbor disease organisms and drain poorly in containers.
- Provide adequate light: Seedlings need 12–16 hours of light daily. A sunny, south-facing window may work, but supplemental grow lights produce stockier plants.
- Keep soil consistently moist: Use a spray bottle or bottom-watering to avoid disturbing seeds and small seedlings.
- Maintain warm temperatures: Most vegetable seeds germinate best at 65–75°F. Heat mats can help in cool rooms.
- Harden off before transplanting: Gradually introduce seedlings to outdoor conditions over 7–10 days. Start with a few hours in a sheltered, shaded spot, then gradually increase sun exposure and time outdoors (Bradley et al., n.d.).
Crops That Require Indoor Starting
Some crops should NOT be direct-seeded in the garden and must be started indoors or purchased as transplants: Brussels sprouts, celery, eggplant, pac choi/bok choy, peppers, and tomatoes (Bradley et al., n.d.).Download the complete NC Vegetable Planting Guide for region-specific planting dates.
Vegetable Garden Planning
Eastern North Carolina offers three optimal growing seasons: spring, summer, and fall. Choosing the right crops for each season is essential for success.
Cool-Season Crops (Plant Now!)
These vegetables tolerate frost and should be planted in early spring. Direct seed or transplant now through mid-April: arugula, beets, broccoli (transplants), cabbage (transplants), carrots, cauliflower (transplants), collards, kale, lettuce, onions, parsley, peas, radishes, spinach, and turnips (Bradley et al., n.d.).
Warm-Season Crops (Wait Until Frost-Free)
These crops don't tolerate frost and should wait until mid-April to May: beans, corn, cucumbers, eggplant, melons, okra, peppers, squash, sweet potatoes, and tomatoes. Gardeners at the coast can typically plant about two weeks earlier than inland areas.
Plan for Companion Planting
Companion planting—growing certain plants near each other for mutual benefit—can improve yields, deter pests, and maximize garden space. Plants with positive relationships should be within two to three rows of each other, while incompatible plants should be kept at least two to three rows apart (Harris & Streets, 2022).
The Three Sisters Garden
One of the most famous companion plantings combines corn, beans, and squash. Corn provides a natural trellis for climbing beans. Beans fix nitrogen in the soil, benefiting corn and squash. Squash leaves shade the ground, suppressing weeds and conserving moisture (Githinji, 2017).
